We check out of our accommodation in Mamallapuram and take a tuk-tuk to the bus stand on the main road. A bus arrived shortly after we got there and then jetted off before we could get in. The next time one comes around we’re ready for action and jump on. Shejal manages to get a seat, but I have to stand for a while.
At about the half way mark of a three hour journey, the bus pulls in to an apocalyptic rest stop. It’s basically a dusty clearing in the woods with a chai wallah at the back. The chaps rush out, turn their backs to the bus and piss into the wind (some go further into the shrub for a number 2)….we’re glad to get going again after about 15 minutes, the smell was giving me a headache.
Once we stepped off the bus in Puducherry we’re greeted by a tuktuk wallah swarm. Ridiculous prices are quoted, we do the old ‘walk-away’ trick and suddenly the price drops. The tuktuk we land has a specially modified horn that sounds like an improv-jazz sax. A fully prolapsed canine with a 100-yard stare greets us as we turn out of the station. This sight has high flashback potential.
Puducherry (or Pondicherry, Pondi) is a large seaside town that was briefly used as an administrative center for French colonial efforts in Tamil Nadu. There’s a small area of the town that’s European style; this is where all the guest houses are. We booked a heritage guest house called Le Hibiscus. The place is a massive step up from where we stayed in Mamallapuram.
We spend a morning walking around the lovely French quarter and beach areas. The local authorities are obviously keen to keep this part of Pondi looking/smelling relatively nice as there are plenty of signs. Not sure why a dog has been chosen to deliver this particular message.
In the afternoon we visit the small Sri Manakula temple. The temple is however large enough to house an elephant which has been trained to bless people upon receipt of a 5rp coin (placed in its trunk). The trunk is raised and placed on the head. I received four blessings; got a bit carried away.
The day is rounded off with a trip to the Shi Aurobindo Ashram. This place was set up by a French lady known as ‘The Mother’ in 1926. It’s a new age yoga/science place. There are pictures of the mother’s eyes everywhere in pondi; bit creepy.
In the evening we break out of the French area in search of some good veg restaurants. We find a place called A2B which does thalis, chats, sweets etc. I had my heart set on some pannear masala/butter nan action, but this place didn’t serve it. This combined with a strange ordering process and busyness led to a small strop on my part. I got over this quickly and ordered a samosa chaat and chai. Shejal had a mixed chaat which I preferred. Still hungry, we went back in for some pau bhaji. Shejal’s mum makes this, so I knew what to expect. Not as good as Jhaver’s, but tasty all the same.
Pondi was properly relaxing and fun. We’re off to Trichy next……………………
At about the half way mark of a three hour journey, the bus pulls in to an apocalyptic rest stop. It’s basically a dusty clearing in the woods with a chai wallah at the back. The chaps rush out, turn their backs to the bus and piss into the wind (some go further into the shrub for a number 2)….we’re glad to get going again after about 15 minutes, the smell was giving me a headache.
Once we stepped off the bus in Puducherry we’re greeted by a tuktuk wallah swarm. Ridiculous prices are quoted, we do the old ‘walk-away’ trick and suddenly the price drops. The tuktuk we land has a specially modified horn that sounds like an improv-jazz sax. A fully prolapsed canine with a 100-yard stare greets us as we turn out of the station. This sight has high flashback potential.
Puducherry (or Pondicherry, Pondi) is a large seaside town that was briefly used as an administrative center for French colonial efforts in Tamil Nadu. There’s a small area of the town that’s European style; this is where all the guest houses are. We booked a heritage guest house called Le Hibiscus. The place is a massive step up from where we stayed in Mamallapuram.
We spend a morning walking around the lovely French quarter and beach areas. The local authorities are obviously keen to keep this part of Pondi looking/smelling relatively nice as there are plenty of signs. Not sure why a dog has been chosen to deliver this particular message.
In the evening we break out of the French area in search of some good veg restaurants. We find a place called A2B which does thalis, chats, sweets etc. I had my heart set on some pannear masala/butter nan action, but this place didn’t serve it. This combined with a strange ordering process and busyness led to a small strop on my part. I got over this quickly and ordered a samosa chaat and chai. Shejal had a mixed chaat which I preferred. Still hungry, we went back in for some pau bhaji. Shejal’s mum makes this, so I knew what to expect. Not as good as Jhaver’s, but tasty all the same.
Pondi was properly relaxing and fun. We’re off to Trichy next……………………
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