Gandhidam (Kutch/ Gujarat)

We decided to change our plans slightly and visit Shejal’s relatives in Gandhidam before heading to Diu. We took a flight from Mumbai to Bhuj, the nearest large town.  Shejal was slightly nervous when we arrived at Bhuj airport as she hasn’t seen her Uncle Bhupendra for 21 years. He’d arranged to pick us up from the airport, but we didn’t recognise him when we exited. From photos I knew that he was very tall, but we didn’t want to get all excited and confront the nearest tall man, so we phoned and waited to see which man reached for the pocket. We finally I.D Bhupu Mama (mama meaning uncle on the mother’s side – Bhupendra shortened to Bhupu); relatives reunite with a hug and I receive a firm handshake. Bhupu Mama asked one of his best mates to do the driving so that he could talk to us during the one hour trip to Gandhidam. Shejal and Bhupu Mama might as well be strangers as they haven’t seen each other for such a long time, so it was slightly awkward at first. This didn’t last long as Shejal was in full swing with the Gujarati and Bhupu Mama got his English warmed up. 

Upon reaching Bhupu Mama’s house in Gandhidam, we’re introduced to the family. Dhaksha Mami is Bhupu Mama’s wife. Bhupu Mama has two daughters and one Son, Nikita (18), Namrata (10), and Parth (16). All the kids speak good English, so I didn’t have any problems communicating with them. We present Namrata with the Sari clad Barbie that we picked up in Mumbai; she was very happy with the gift. Being the youngest, Namrata is full of energy, and it’s not long before she’s lost interest in new Barbie and demands that I read her a story from her English textbook!

In the evening, Bhupu Mama gives us on a tour of Gandhidam in his car. Gandhidam is a relatively new town that was purpose-built to house the Sindh population from Pakistan after partition. We’re driven to Gopalpuri, a village built to house workers from Kandla port (India’s busiest - created because the only major port in the west, Karachi, landed in Pakistan after partition). Shejals Granddad set up home here after partition and managed to work his way up to a senior position at the port. We visit the house where Shejal’s Mum was born (along with her 6 siblings!). Some fantastic Gujarati food prepared by Dhaksha Mami is waiting for us when we return home. Dessert is supplied by the Kulfi wallah who does the rounds every evening at 8, announcing his arrival by ringing a bell – Indian version of an ice cream van.  

Bhupu Mama took a trip in his new car to get everyone a sweet paan (mouth freshener made from mix of sweet spices). I’ve had paan before and remain unconvinced. Very strange flavour – lots of aniseed/fennel, it’s a step too far for me. Everyone else polished theirs off quickly. I get to know Bhupu Mama better over a wee drink. He demonstrates some submission moves that are used by the Indian army on me to everyones amusement – ouch! 

Next day we decide to chill out and spend time at home with the family. Being that it was a Sunday everyone was at home. We watched England vs. South Africa cricket match then headed outside for a little game of our own. 

Shejal and Namrata enjoying some half time refreshment

Very tame local calf searching for food during our cricket game

Playing ludo with Namrata

We watched part of the Indian vs. Netherlands cricket match and then headed out with Nikita and Namrata for dinner. We’re told the restaurant has the best cakes in town. I try the black forest gateaux which was a little odd without the eggs (Gujarat is strong veggie country), but still the best attempt at a European style cake I’ve had in India – yum. 

The next day was spent touring around Kutch by car. My next blog will cover it; this one is getting too long already!

Our final full day in Gandhidam is spent visiting Bhupu Mama’s best mates. Narendra is a local entrepreneur who made his fortune in haulage and selling tuktuks. We visited his main showroom. Being guests of honour, we’re invited into a business meeting with a couple of unnamed insurance reps. Narendra orders one of his employees to fetch ice cream and all five of us men talk business, cricket, travel etc (Shejal is relegated to translator - the Indian workplace is a man’s world!). 

After an hour at the showroom we go to visit another friend of Bhupu Mama’s (can’t remember his name) who runs a furniture company. We’re kindly invited into his friend’s home where we meet his wife and children. Bhupu Mama seems to know everyone in Gandhidam, and he’s keen to show us off!

In the evening we’re taken to Narendra’s home to meet his family. We’re given the tour of his new luxury house (built on the original family plot after the old house was damaged by 2001 earthquake). We meet his lovely children who appear to speak better English than me. We then drop in on Bhupu Mama’s cousin. We’re given a tour of the cousin’s luxury mansion; if you’ve got money in India, you really can live like a king. Once back home, Shejal hits the hay early and Bhupu Mama shares advice/philosophies with me over a couple of whiskeys.

Bhupu Mama organised a car to take us to Diu at 1PM, so we had the morning to visit Kandla port where he works. It’s not possible for members of the public to visit the port, but Bhupu Mama (being a man of influence) cleared it with the port security. I’m a geek for this kind of thing, so was really excited. Bhupu Mama drove us around the dockside explaining the function of each loading area and what kind of materials come in and leave. Best of all, Bhupu Mama organised for a tug to take us out into the port for a boat trip. We were dwarfed by the container ships as we made our way up and down the dockside. About half way through, the tug engine got flooded with water and crapped out, leaving us drifting around in the water. The boat chaps managed to get it started after a while, but we were worried there for a second! Once we finally got to the mooring, Bhupu Mama and the boat driver laughed nervously – if anything happened to us in the port (being that we were there unofficially) it would have been problematic. Picture taking is understandably prohibited, so no illustration. 

We say our final goodbyes and take some final photos before leaving. We both pay respects to the photos of Shejal’s Grandparents which has pride of place in the living room; Shejal sheds a tear.  

It was great spending time with Nikita and Parth chatting about everything/nothing. Namrata is certainly energetic, and we had lots of fun playing games with her. Dhaksha Mami’s food was the best we’ve had during our entire stay in India. Bhupu Mama really made us feel at home, taking care of everything during our stay. We were both touched by Bhupu Mama’s kindness; he treated us as if we were his own son and daughter. I won’t forget Bhupu Mama’s nuggets of wisdom passed on over wee drink or two. The stay has been the high-point of the trip so far, combining the excellent sights of Kutch with a rare taste of Gujarati family life. We’ll both miss our time spent in Gandhidam.