Khajuraho

We didn’t like the sound of the nine hour bus journey from Varanasi to Khajuraho, so booked a flight instead. Varanasi airport is modern and large, but virtually deserted when we arrived apart from an Australian couple that we got talking to. The conversation comes to an abrupt end when the fella declares that “all Hindus and Muslims are dirty, even the ones back home”.  The Airport soon fills up with a French tour group who down a large bottle of whiskey between themselves for breakfast before going through security; no alcohol allowed on plane. The journey lasts 45 minutes – loving the short flights.

Khajuraho has a large group of medieval Hindu and Jain temples, famous for their erotic sculpture. The monuments are one of the most popular tourist destinations in India.

We’ve found that most of the highly rated hotels on trip advisor haven’t been available at short notice, but our pick in Khajuraho luckily was. The hotel was cheap, clean, and most importantly, had toilet paper. We congratulated the manager on the toilet paper. Before any sightseeing, we were anxious to book our next hotel in Orchha. We find out that the manager of our first pick was coincidently in Khajuraho, and as it turns out, best mates with the manager of our current hotel. After a couple of phone calls, he turns up in person at our hotel to take the booking. Couldn’t believe our luck! In a town full of touts, the hotel chaps were really helpful and friendly.

We get one full day to explore the temples. We start with the famous ‘western group’, which is a short walk from the hotel. We pay an extra Rs100 each for the audio tour which is recommended in the guide book. We quickly realize that it’s crap, and I go to get a refund. The audio tour wallah would only refund half the fee; he’s backed up by two policemen - I accept.

The temples were built Between 950 and 1150AD. There’re so intricately detailed, it’s hard to imagine the patience required to build them. Many have erotic Karma Sutra style carvings on the outside. This one is the most famous.

These were some comedy ones we spotted. So obscene that the ladies cover their eyes!

  

After lunch, we walk into the nearby villages to explore the ‘eastern group’. We’re followed by a pack of local children asking firstly for pens, then chocolate, and finally money. Khajuraho is really touristy, but the temples are amazing and well worth the visit.