Alappuzha – Backwaters

We’re both a bit tired of using the local buses, so we opt to train it to Alappuzha. Being Indian train virgins, we’d tried to book advance tickets for the journey the day before departure. We were sent from counter to counter, made to fill out forms, and then finally told that advance bookings can only be made if the destination is over 200KM away. We’re told to come back the next day. One benefit of this episode is that we’re getting better at effective Indian queuing. Our tactic is to use Shejal in the thrust of the queuing attack with me repulsing attempts from cheeky bastards on the flanks.

The train is much more comfortable than going by bus! We got an A/C ticket and managed to find our way to the spacious sleeper section. It is on this train that I get conned for the first time in India. An official-looking chap pops up and takes our seat numbers, saying lunch will be served shortly. I’m thinking, great, we get lunch complimentary with our special ‘A/C ticket’. Not so, we reach our destination the chap emerges from somewhere and demands money for the food (which is stupidly overpriced). Not letting me leave the train, I had to pay up. The most expensive chicken biriyani I’m ever likely to have (in India). 

Alappuzha is a town close to the backwaters. From here we’d planned to stay a night and organise a houseboat for the day after. Houseboats are big business in Alappauzha, so everyone is trying to tout one. This includes the owner of our homestay. After we arrived, we went to see a potential houseboat with him. To get to the canal, I went on the back of his brother’s motorbike and Shejal went with him on his scooter. After a terrifying high-speed ride through Alappauzha, we get to the houseboat. It’s nasty. We say no thank you. After some shopping around, we found a really nice houseboat and booked for the next day.

The day starts at 11AM. We get driven to the houseboat mooring and introduced to the crew. We get a captain and 2 cooks. All meals and overnight stay on boat is included in the price.

We make our way through the beautiful backwaters. Captain lets Shejal drive the boat for a bit. I bought some tiger prawns from a local chap who came up to the boat in a canoe. At the end of the day we anchored near a village and watched the sun-set over dinner (which included prawns purchased earlier). Brilliant day. 

After a peaceful nights sleep on the boat, we’re awoken by the boat moving. We’re on our way back to Alappuzha. Breakfast is served with a cracking view. 

Next stop Cochin....